The circlips or e-clips as they may be called force you to install them after the motor wiping rotor is in its place. I had to move my under dash air conditioner out of the way without disconnecting it. Additionally I did this while the seat is out. The two speeds are slow and not quite as slow. Unless you are going to drive where you are likely to get caught in the rain for any extended period of time I would not recommend the electric conversion. The attached drawing shows the 69 on the bottom half of the page and no where does any FORD drawing show the details of my explanation, nor are there any videos.I recommend the brake fluid trick. So, If anyone had more or better info, I too would love to hear about your remedy, especially the next part for me it the removal of the control and gauge from the dash / instrument panel. Sort of a long explanation but I had to learn on my own as there is little to No info available I have found anywhere. In my case the cable needs to be replaced and in the meantime I reconnected the hydraulic lines and put a small wedge between the wiper motor and actuator arm/lever to off position so I can run the engine without the wipers being On. if you have to that would mean the lower windshield chrome, and cowel to gain access to the mounting bolts for the wipe motor. (best position for removing the cable) If you can make the wipers run on and off, you probably wont have to remover the wiper motor. I was able to loosen mine up and run the wipers by hand (fingers) moving the lever. It will mover ever so little and it is really hard to see any action where it is. Then I used the special wiper motor tool (flat blade screwdriver) between the arm/lever and wiper body to work the button and make sure it is free. A bit further back and on the body of the wiper motor and arm is a small steel ( I think ) button, similar to like what you find on a carb diaghram. Then you can manually move the actuator lever/arm from left to right. With a needle nose pliers you can push from the front to back to slide the cable off the actuator arm. Careful as the cable slides into the actuator arm from back to front and there is a small washer like retainer on the end of the cable. I unhooked the cable from the actuator arm. IF actuator arm does not move the cable is probably rusted and after weeks of attempting to loosen mine, I have not been successful. Have someone move the switch on the instrument panel and see if the cable is moving the actuator arm on the pax side of the wiper motor. You will see the actuating cable on the front of the wiper motor held in place with a single small screw. Next step if that does not work, take the hydraulic lines off at the fire wall and remove the roughly 8 inch by 3 inch access panel held on with 4 1/4 inch screws. You may need to run teh engine a couple times to get the seal lube to work on internals. As you can turn your knob your cable is most likely moving the actuator by means of the cable (on/off/position) arm on the pax side of the wiper motor. It may work itself out with lubing up the internals of the wiper motor. Then run the engine until Hot, and turning the steering wheel stop to assist in getting the air out of the system, let the system run. ) I know some will say never use it, but it works for me. First thing I did was to add about 3 - 4 oz of Seal Lube. The first thing I did was to take off the wiper arms to keep them from dry wiping the windshield. I'm sure you know it is a Hydraulic operated wiper motor and mine also has intermittent positions in addition to On/Off. I have a 69 TBird that has/had the same issue.
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